JUST A LITTER :

The choice of a female kitten, with the purpose that she will have babies at the adult age

CAUTION

It is obvious that to have kittens that run everywhere, frolic, scuffle with their brothers and sisters, is very amusing, and brings joy and happiness.

This litter maybe answers the wish of your own children !!!
However, one ought to weigh all the consequences. To have   a pregnant she-cat is not without risks and this goes for her potential   kittens, as well.

First of all, it is necessary to find her a stud cat, worthy of this name, from the same breed, and compatible (temperament). It is to be proscribed to choose for her a male who does not correspond to the characteristics and the morphology of your female. Few are the breeders who accept the external cat meetings. If dedicated in finding one, he sometimes lives very far from on your home and you must bring your female to him. The cost of a meeting with a stud cat varies from 250 to 550 euros.

The day of the delivery arrived !!! Will you be available to assist your "daughter" with the birth, to support her, perform the adequate gestures in order to relieve her sufferings, and especially help her by administering the first aid intervention to the kittens? What  if something goes wrong during the birth? Will you call a veterinary surgeon? Will you able to judge the opportunity in real time !!!! Finally, a veterinary surgeon, even warned in advance, might not be available (the childbirth often occurs the night or might take place during the weekend).

Once  the kittens are born, will their mom sufficiently have milk? If the mom does not have milk, it is necessary to nourrish the kittens every two hours, day and night alike !!! You will also have to take care of the kittens’ weight. Weaning with solid food should not be done before the four weeks age. The interval between two feeding bottles could be increased only when the kitten has grown.
Weaning is also a delicate period. You will have to make sure that the kittens eat wet food by themselves when you present it to them.

Once that they will have accepted this food and be accustomed to it, you will then  and only be able to offer them croquettes adapted to their age.

As you can see, to have kittens at home is not a piece of cake ;-). You will have to consider such a responsibility (to have a single litter and have small balls of hairs running everywhere) before making any decision. It is actually necessary to be totally available and to have unlimited time to devote to the mom and her offspring, this if you do not want to run the risk to lose one or more kittens. It is thus necessary for you to be aware and prepared.

CHOICE OF THE STUD CAT

The choice of a stud cat is important in order to respect the morphology published in the standards of the Thaï. Only, the union between a male thaï and a female Thaï is authorized. Therefore, it is important to consider the traditional morphology. It is also necessary to be attentive with the desired colours of the future kittens. Indeed, it is necessary to well analyze the pedigrees of the two futures mating cats in order to be fully aware of the possibilities as far as the kittens’ colours are concerned. In order to help you with this task, here is a small table which gives you an idea of the various possibilities : click here.
Also, it is necessary to get information about the male’s character. A calm and sociable temperament will be privileged. It is important for the stud cat to have a balanced and stable nature. The kitten’s character depends on his/her parents’ genetic heritage and on how the breeder knows about the kittens’ parents.

THE MATING

The moment for the mating has come! Your female, in a state of hunting, will have to go as fast as possible to the residence of the male which you will have selected before. Before leaving her in "boarding”, make sure that the male was tested (aids of the cat (FiV) plus cat leucosis (FeLV)) and that his results are negative. Also, you will have to give a photocopy of your female’s negative results for the same tests. These tests will be take little time before "the union". Of course, male and female will have to be in order with their respective vaccination and deworming.
It may be that your female, once in contact with the male in an unfamiliar place and following transport, she will cut her heats for one or two days. This is not worrying. Nature will eventually take over. If there is compatibility, everything will occur according to the universal and natural laws of physical attraction. If -on the other hand- one of the protagonists displeases the other, nothing will be able to join together them.
The average duration of a mating is approximately five days.

GESTATION

After the mating, a long period of waiting starts. Your veterinary surgeon is able to assure you of the gestation after the 21st day by palpation. Between the 21st and the 30th day, he will be able to tell you the number of foetal bulbs present. Beyond that, to count them becomes impossible.

Here various sketches showing the evolution of the foetal bulbs during the gestation period.

After three weeks of gestation, it is also possible to observe a modification in the size and colour of the nipples. They become pinker and swell a little. The female’s character changes: it is more cuddly and calmer than usual. She tends to be nourished of advantage. You might want to give her whatever she likes to eat. A special food for kittens will be given to her during the last fifteen days of her pregnancy and while she is feeding the kittens.

In theory, a gestation is a 65 days period. However, this theoretical duration can vary from one she-cat to another and according to the number of kittens and their development. The kittens, to be viable, must be born between 60 to 69 days. Before 58 days, they will not be sufficiently developed and will be consequently nonviable. Beyond 70 days, your veterinary surgeon will surgically intervene in order to extract the kittens. Here is a small table which will enable you to estimate the date of babies’ birth more or less, according to the date of mating : click here.
In order for you to ensure that all occurs well and in regards of the good course of the pregnancy, you will be able, at the end of this one ask your veterinary surgeon to carry out a scan. He will be able to give you a probable date of confinement and to reassure you that all is in order. Please, avoid sharing your stress with your female. It is obvious that with the least worrying sign (of any nature) and this throughout gestation, it is necessary to immediately consult your veterinary surgeon.

THE BIRTH

The great day arrived. Your female is more nervous than usually. She will seek to take refuge in a calm place. You must prepare a place for her, more or less a week before the childbirth, where she will feel safe. It is indeed very important that the place devoted to her be safe from draughts, noises, and other elements that could disturb her. Do not forget that a she-cat has very developed maternal instincts. Consequently, she will seek calm and serenity for her kittens. A full light is also to proscribe. Your female will prefer a slightly dark site. You will realize very quickly if she accepts the place that you will have given her, because in the contrary case, she "will move" her babies in another place.

Inform your veterinary surgeon of the imminence of the event, so he/she will be aware and can plan to be available in order to intervene either after the births, or in the event of any problem.
It is imperative that in these moments of great stress, you can comfort your she-cat and that you let her know that she can count on you and your presence. Speak, cherish her, remain in the vicinity, and –especially- constantly check the beginning the first kitten’s exit.

50% of the kittens born while being presented by the legs back	Foetus just expelled. We can see the amniotic pocket, the umbilical cord and the placenta.

This first kitten will “open" the passage. Some mothers react well to a first birth while others -on the other hand- do not understand what is happening to them: following the pain of the expulsion of the first kitten, they can turned on the kitten, crunch it, or quite simply ignore it /them. It is then necessary to intervene to save the kitten: to open the envelope which surrounds him/her, then, the umbilical cord must be divided with +/- 1 cm of the abdomen of the kitten. Make sure that the she-cat can be immediately occupied with the new born. If it is not the case, take the kitten and rub him/her with two toileteries gloves (or soft bath towel). That should stimulate his/her. Vigorously mass his/her back, placing the head down in order to eliminate the possible liquid which it would have swallowed. To activate the  breathing, return the kitten to his/her mom so that she can finish his/her toilet, plus acknowledge  her kitten. Do the same with the following kittens.

Ensure that the placenta leaves well  with the kitten or little time after each birth. If it is not the case, inform your veterinary surgeon and he/she will act accordingly. The placentas can be eaten by the mother, because they provide proteins.

The new born kittens seek their mom’s nipples in order to begin feeding.

The determination of the babies's sex is not always easy !!!!   left : FEMALE right : MALE

BREEDING OF THE KITTENS

The first thirty-six hours of their life, the kittens will profit from the colostrums produced by their mom. The colostrums is a thick liquid rich in proteins and antibodies secreted by the mammary glands after the birth of the kittens, before the milk secretion starts.

Between the birth and the fourteenth day (neonatal period), the kittens sleep and nourish themselves from their mom’s nipples.
About the tenth day, the eyes start opening. In the few days that follow, the first teeth appear. The colouring of the points begins after about fifteen days. It may be earlier for the seal point and the blue point, but later for the chocolate point and the lilac point.

It is important to weigh the kittens on a daily basis, this in order to follow their weight gain. In general, a kitten must double its birth weight after one week. He/she must triple its birth weight after two weeks. Finally, it must quadruple its birth weight after three weeks. Beyond five weeks, another general rule estimates that the kitten must weigh its number of weeks multiplied per hundred grams and added with one hundred grams. For example: a 6 week old kitten should weigh (6 x 100gr) + 100gr. Which gives 700 grams.

After the fourth week, the period of weaning can start. A food known as "wet" will be given to the kittens. This food will be initially very liquid in order not to carry out too quickly a transition with milk from the mom. After a few days, it will not be necessary anymore to add water to wet food (boxes for kittens).

At this age, the kittens are less dependent on their mom. However, they remain much attached. To wander from the nest is frequent. The "adventures" can start! Beyond five to six weeks, croquettes for kittens can be presented. Make sure that fresh and clean water is be placed at their disposal.

Between the 3rd and 7th week, the first phase of socialization takes place. This period is important for the future balance of the cat.
The kitten is educated, in first, by its mom. She will show the maximum of useful things for her offspring. She gives the good example thus to be followed.
Each kitten will have to experience everyday life.  It agrees paramount time to the training of the kitten. Indeed, the more a kitten is handled and/or touched, the better the kitten will gain the needed skills for its future life. It is proven that a kitten handled at least three times fifteen minutes per day is much more stable than a kitten which was handled only ten minutes per day. In the same way, for its harmony, it is preferable that the kitten knows the maximum of people and/or children during this period. The kitten will also have to be put in the presence of other cats and dogs in the residence. Moreover, the kitten will adopt a more sociable nature and will adapt more easily to its new family when he/she will be adopted.
Between the seventh and the fourteenth week, the second phase of socialization takes place. During this period, the elements that have not yet been acquired will have to be taught. It definitely will be more difficult than with the kitten which has had prior education.

As the weeks pass, the kittens play together. They nicely scuffle. The mom is also invited to play. As soon as the “playing” goes a little too far, when a kitten feels "wedged" or is nibbled, or if it quite simply feels an unspecified pain, it is automatically withdrawn. At this age, the kitten will have to understand/learn that it cannot bite nor scratch.

Between the ninth and the fourteenth week, the kittens play most of the time. After the twelve weeks age, the plays become less and less peaceful. The "cat-like" character of the adult cat is set up gently. If the kitten were not indeed educated, it will feel the need for being defended towards any potential enemy, like another cat in the house, a dog, or another animal. It is consequently of primary importance that at this age, it knows that he can also play with the other animals of the house.

In order to ensure the best possible socialization and to give the kitten all the necessary vaccines before its departure, our breeders only yield their kittens after the age of thirteen to fourteen weeks. Trust their work and their daily concerns. The price of a kitten is sometimes raised, but by no means compensates for the efforts and the devotion of our breeders.